Sunbeam on the Augerpoint Traverse, Strathcona Provincial Park
September is one of my favourite months for backpacking anywhere. The temperatures aren’t too cold, the bugs are gone and the landscape is full of transformation and change. September can also be a little bit of a frantic month too. With winter rearing its head, it’s hard not to try to milk September for as many trips and adventures as possible.
I started my fall with a fun little overnight jaunt into the Kusawa Plateau, halfway between Whitehorse and Haines Junction. Kate Weeks and I had just finished guiding a backpacking trip in the Tombstone Mountains and we both were itching to get out and take advantage of a beautiful weather window. It was the perfect way to end a guiding season: a relaxing, client-less trip with no itinerary and a good friend. Kate and I had worked an incredibly challenging West Coast Trail at the beginning of our season and it felt cathartic to round out that experience with something easy and enjoyable.
Jojo Lake at the valley bottom and far in the distance Mt Logan.
The hills were alight in the fiery colours of fall. Blazing oranges, electric yellows and vibrant greens lit up the valleys and hillsides while the ground erupted with its seemingly infinite berry offerings. The cranberries, crow berries, and blueberries carpeted the game trails providing us with tasty snacks for our hungry bellies.
We could not have had better weather during the days. The cool ambient temperature was regulated by a brilliant sun that made for fantastic hiking conditions and glorious visibility. As soon as the sun set, the mercury plummeted and left us scrambling for the warmth of our sleeping bags. When we woke the next morning, all our water had frozen and we were left with a solid reminder that winter was coming.
I got back to Whitehorse, cleaned by gear, repacked and left the following morning for two and half weeks in Victoria. I was going to play a concert with my Dad but figured I’d take advantage of the warm Vancouver Island weather and sneak in another backpacking trip.
Ruth Masters Lake
Teaming up with my friends Austin and Britt, we decided we’d head to Strathcona park to hike the Augerpoint Traverse. I had hiked this trail in 2016 and I had been dying to do this traverse again. It’s a gorgeous hike that takes you from the eastern border, up and over Mt Albert Edward and down to Buttle lake, the heart of the park. The route is continuously engaging with sweeping views, short scrambles on good rock, and easy but exposed sections that keeps it interesting.
It felt special being back in the park. I spent two extremely formative years working at the Strathcona Park Lodge as an instructor and the park was where I cut my teeth climbing, hiking, and canoeing. To feel so comfortable and at ease in this landscape filled me with gratitude for what these mountains and its wildlife had given me.
While we were blessed with beautiful, clear skies, a heavy feeling clung to the air. The ground was parched and crying out for rain. Around Buttle lake, you could taste the smoke from the fires in the adjacent valleys and the surrounding hills hid behind an insidious haze. As someone who grew up here, I felt my heart break seeing the effects of our warming planet on my beloved island. This little rain this far into the season will have serious effects on everything and everyone.
From the top of Mt Albert Edward
I flew home a few days after our trip. Whitehorse was barely clinging to fall and the mountains were getting dusted with snow. The daily highs were still above zero and it looked like we would have one more good weekend. Emma and I decided to try our hand at a little bike packing in the Wheaton Valley. We wanted to climb Mt Skookum and planned to bike the 20km approach on old mining roads before hiking up. It’s an easy bike ride but pretty darn uncomfortable when carrying a big backpack. Other than one of the coldest river crossing I’ve ever done, we cruised up the old mining roads. We had gotten a late start and didn’t get close enough to make Mt Skookum happen, so instead decided to take it easy and pitch camp beside Berney creek. That evening, I got totally freaked out by bears. Ugh, I can’t tell you why, but my mind went crazy and I became convinced that death by bear chomping was imminent. Worst sleep ever... I think I need to stop listening to those bear attack podcasts…
The Wheaton Valley
Mt Reid
We woke up the next morning to an absolutely gorgeous sunrise and decided to hike up Mt McNeil for a few hours. We were rewarded with a mega cruisey bushwack and awesome views. The mountain tops around us were covered in a light dusting of snow and while sunny, the wind nipped at us with a cold bite. Winter was definitely here.
We got back to camp and had the most amazing bike ride back to the car. All downhill and fast! I managed to not fall during the creek crossing for a second time (a personal best) and we were back home for dinner.
It was my last backpacking trip of the year and a perfect season ender.
